Build this beautiful DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan with Drawers for your entry, dining room, or living room.
Yea! It’s week 2 of our Living Room Makeover and things are moving along nicely. You can see the living room before photos and makeover plan here. This week, I’m sharing the DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan for the table I’ll be using behind our couch. This is one of my favorite builds, guys! And how beautiful is that paint color!
Strangely enough, I actually designed and built this console table this past May. But I have been totally procrastinating about sharing the tutorial. Writing these things up takes quite a bit of time. Time that I generally want to spend building the next thing. 😉 But, now that just means I get to share the build steps this week, with you. Serendipity!
I’ll be drawing up printable build plans for this table in the next few months. Be sure to sign up for the email newsletter to find out when they’re ready. 🙂
Quick Note: I’m sharing this living room makeover as part of the Fall 2018 One Room Challenge. Follow the link to see a page full of inspiring indoor and outdoor rooms being made over by over 200 talented designers and DIY bloggers. But first, grab a cup of coffee, you’ll want to see them all. So much inspiration, guys! Here is an overview of the living room makeover plans.
ORC Living Room Makeover- 5 Week Plan
- Layout a plan and decide on some of the main choices…fabric, curtains, paint, etc
- Paint the Walls, Ceiling, and Crown Molding
- Remodel the Fireplace Wall with a Modern, Traditional Millwork Design
- Build and Upholster 2 new Ottomans
- Reupholster 2 Wing Chairs…in the worlds most amazing fabric 😉
- Build 2 new Side Tables
- Add a Console Table Behind our Couch
- Move the TV above the Fireplace
- Rearrange the Layout around our Great Views
- Add new lighting, wall art, decor, throws, pillows…basically, add the icing!
Let’s get this DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan with Drawers build started!
DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan with drawers – Tools Needed
- Saw, I used a Miter Saw for the straightest possible cuts
- Circular Saw, with a cutting guide for perfectly straight cuts, if available
- 2 Sets of 16″ Drawer Slides
- Power Drill
- Kreg Jig, I use the Kreg Jig R3, and screws
- Brad Nails and Nail Gun (I’ve used this one for years)
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan with drawers – Cutting Guide
Build Note: I recommend making the cuts for this DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan, as you need them. Things don’t always line up as planned during a build. ALWAYS DOUBLE-CHECK measurements for each piece before cutting, so that they work perfectly with your build.
- 4 – 33 1/4″ long 2″ x 2″ Dimensional Lumber- for the legs (I used Select Pine for this build)
- 6 – 15 1/2″ long 2″ x 2″ Dimensional Lumber – for the side rails in the middle and at the top and bottom
- 6 – 45 1/2″ long 2″ x 2″ Dimensional Lumber – for the side rails in the middle and at the top and bottom
- 1 – 8″ long 2″ x 2″ Dimensional Lumber – between the drawers
- 1 – 16 1/4″ long 2″ x 2″ Dimensional Lumber – stretches inside between the drawers (for the drawer slides)
- 2 – 18 1/2″ long 2″ x 2″ Dimensional Lumber – for the feet – with a 45 degree notch out of the front tip
- 2 – 15 1/2″ x 45 1/2″ – 3/4″ thick cabinet-grade plywood for bottom and middle shelf (can be adjusted for 1/2″ thick plywood)
- 2 – 15 1/2″ x 8″ – 3/4″ thick cabinet-grade plywood for side panels (can be adjusted for 1/2″ thick plywood)
- 1 – 8″ x 45 1/2″ – 3/4″ thick cabinet-grade plywood for the back panel (can be adjusted for 1/2″ thick plywood)
- 4 – 50″ long 1″ x 6″ Dimensional Lumber – for the top
- 4 – 8″ long and 4 – 15 1/2″ long 1/4″ Pine Screen Molding, cut with 45-degree corners – for trim inside the side panels
- 2 – 18 1/2″ long and 1 – 49 1/2″ long 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Molding – for front and side bottom edges of the Console Table
- 2 – 15 1/2″ x 2″ – 1/2″ plywood – to build a flat surface for the drawer slides
- Drawer Boxes (You can modify this to use 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood with higher sides)
- 4 – 16″ long 1″x6″ Dimensional Lumber – for the sides of 2 boxes
- 4 – 19 1/2″ long 1″x6″ Dimensional Lumber – for the front and back
- 2 – 21″ x 16″ – 1/4″ plywood – for the bottom
- 2 – 21 7/8″ x 7 7/8″ long Plywood drawer fronts and Edgebanding to hide the plywood edges
DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan with drawers – Build Steps
Please Note: You’ll notice 1×2’s in some of the photos where I say to use a 2×2. I realized 2×2’s would have been better for the entire frame, halfway through my build. Sorry for any confusion.
Begin by assembling the frames for the sides. Each of the 3 rails will have 1 pocket hole on each side. Follow the Kreg Jig guidelines for the pocket holes for the thickness of each board. Each side will be 2 – 33 1/4″ long 2×2 legs with 3 – 15 1/2″ long 2×2 rails at the top, bottom and middle. The middle rail should start 9 1/2″ down from the top of the frame. Use appropriate pocket hole screws and wood glue to connect each spot.
Follow the exact same process to connect the side frames at the front and back. 3 – 45 1/2″ rails at front in back, in the same places, with 1 pocket hole at the end of each. Use appropriate pocket hole screws and wood glue to connect each spot.
Once all 4 sides of the frame are complete, you can add the 15 1/2″ x 45 1/2″ plywood bottom and middle. You can see in the photo that I used 2 pocket holes on the short sides and 4 pocket holes on the long sides.
To easily make sure the plywood is level with the frame, clamp scrap boards along the top of the rails before flipping the frame over. Then you can set the plywood on those clamped boards and it should be flush with the rails.
Add the 2 – 8″ x 15 1/2″ plywood sides, next. 2 pocket holes on the long sides and 1 on the short sides will be enough. I only set these back 1/4″ from the front of the rails. Then used 1/4″ thick Pine Screen Moulding and my brad nailer to frame out the plywood.
BUT, you could set the 3/4″ plywood flush with the inside edge of the 2×2 frame and have 3/4″ of setback in the front for 3/4″ deep moulding, like a nice 3/4″ deep Cove or Panel Molding. Use 45-degree corners on whichever moulding you pick. Glue and brad nail it into place.
Then add the 8″ x 45 1/2″ plywood to the back of the drawer box. This side generally won’t be visible. So, you can skip the trim and just set it flush with the outside of the frame. Use 4 pocket holes on each long side and 1 on each short side.
Add 1/2″ x 3/4″ molding along the bottom front and side edges to add more detail to the design. The moulding should stick out 1/2″ from the table, so the 3/4″ thick side is glued and brad nailed to the frame.
This type of molding along the bottom edge of furniture is pretty common in traditional furniture. For this moulding, I added moulding to each side, then along the length of the front, including the length of moulding on each side.
Find the middle (should be 22 3/4″) of the top and middle front rails and mark them with pencil. Then mark the middle of the 8″ long divider to go between the boxes. Line up those marks and you should have that 8″ long divider directly in the middle of the drawer opening. Of course, before gluing and nailing that divider in place, double-check the distance from each side at top and bottom.
Lets add the 4 angled frame pieces. Be careful cutting the angles and getting the length right for your build. Double-check all of the measurements, as you work. The 2 angles on the back are 29″ long with 45-degree angles. Put 1 pocket hole on each end of the backside of the pieces.
The other 2 sides are 24 3/4″ long. The angle on the top is 34-degrees, on mine. And 56-degrees on the bottom. Go slow and double-check. Angles can be pretty confusing, at least for me. I like to hold a board up to the spot and roughly sketch the angle on the board before cutting. It makes it less confusing when I take it to the saw.
Use 1 pocket hole on each end again. Go for the inside of the pieces on the sides. Glue and screw all 4 in place.
If you set your 3/4″ side plywood panel 1/4″ back from the outside of the frame, you’ll need to use a 1/2″ plywood strip to make the inside flat and ready for the drawer slide hardware. (See photo) Technically, you only need that 1/2″ strip directly behind the glide.
I used another scrap piece of 1/2″ plywood as a spacer for my drawer slides. I set the slide on the spacer to attach it 1/2″ from the bottom of the drawer opening. Then I attached the drawer slide to the bottom edge of the drawers I built. This leaves enough room for the 1/4″ drawer bottom.
Use that 1/2″ spacer again to rest the 16 1/4″ – 2″ x 2″ board on behind the 8″ high drawer divider. This will be the board you attach the drawer glides to, in the middle. Glue and screw this into place with a pocket hole at each end. Be sure to get that piece as square as possible.
Double-check the measurements for your drawers with the exact dimensions of your opening and the recommended requirements of your drawer slides. Your drawer boxes should be about 21″ x 16″, depending on how perfectly to plan every cut was made. I know, drawers are hard, y’all But if I can do it, so can you. I recommend this tutorial for drawers on FixThisBuildThat to help explain drawers better.
The pocket holes for drawers should be on the outside of the front and back pieces. This means you won’t see them on the inside of the box. And the drawer front you’ll add, will be hiding the pocket holes on the front piece.
Assemble the box with glue and screws. Attach the drawer slides to the bottom edge of the wood. Glue and Nail the bottom piece of plywood onto the box.
Make sure that the drawer boxes and glides work before attaching the fronts. Once you have them working, attach the 3/4″ thick inset fronts. Use playing cards and painters tape to hold the fronts in place while you screw them onto the boxes from the back.
Build your top with 4 – 50″ long 1″ x 6″ boards, using glue and 4 pocket holes along 3 of the boards to join them together. After it has dried. Cut 2 1/2″ off a long end to make the top 19 1/2″ x 50″ long. I recommend using a straight edge cutting guide to get a perfect cut.
Attach the top with angle brackets and 1/4″ screws. You might want to finish the top and table separately, before attaching, if you’re going with a mix of paint and stain, like mine.
Now your DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan is built, you’re ready to finish it off. 🙂
DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan with drawers – My Finishing Steps
Remove the drawers. Fill all pocket holes with a good wood filler. If you plan to stain the table, be sure to use a wood filler that stains well. Sand all holes flush, once filler dries. I also sand all hard edges on each rail, leg, corners, etc. I think it gives furniture a more ‘finished’ look.
If painting, I sand to 120 or 150 grit on Pine. If staining, I’ll go to 220. Wipe away all dust with a good tack cloth or very slightly damp scrap cloth. I painted this table with Magnolia Homes by Kilz in the color Weekend. It’s a great dark Teal. JoAnna Gaines actually designed this color line with Kilz. You can buy this color, in a chalk paint, at Target.
The top is stained with Medium Walnut, Danish Oil by Watco. I love using this product. You can literally pour it on and wipe it around. It’s not sticky at all and dries quicker than normal stain. I used 2 coats of this, lightly sanding with 220-grit between coats. Then I sealed with 2 coats of Minwax’s Polycrylic in Clear Matte.
ONE LAST REMINDER, I’ll be creating a printable version of this DIY Farmhouse Console Table Plan in the next few months. Be sure to sign up for the email newsletter to be notified when it’s available. Thanks again, for stopping by for this weeks Living Room One Room Challenge update!