This DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand looks beautiful under your tree. AND, it works as ornament storage when you’re ready to pack the tree away. Yassss!
Today, I’ve got a quick build for you that pulls double-duty. Last week, I decided it was time to build the DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand I’ve wanted for years. So, I spent a couple days just trying to decide how to build it and make it collapsible. See, I hate storing big things that only get used once a year. But, then I finally realized, it doesn’t have to sit empty the rest of the year.
I happy danced all around the Living Room when I realized I could use that same box to store all of my Christmas Ornaments and decor once the tree came down. Holla!
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DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand – Materials Needed
Quick Note: I deigned this box to sit under my artificial tree. Your tree may have less or more clearance between the limbs and the floor. You may need to adjust the design to fit your tree. ALSO, when using a live tree, you should line the inside with a waterproof, heavy duty bag or liner to protect the wood.
Bonus: Free Printable Plans for this Christmas Tree Stand are available for download at the end of the tutorial. 🙂
- 4 – 13 1/4″ long 2″ x 2″ Select Pine Boards, for the corners
- 8 – 20 1/2″ long 2″ x 2″ Select Pine Boards, 2 for each side frame
- 4 – 6″ long 2″ x 2″ Select Pine Boards, to support the base
- 1 – 20 1/2″ x 20 1/2″ x 1/2″ thick MDF or Plywood, for the base
- 4 – 20 1/4″ x 13″ X 1/4″ thick Beadboard, MDF, or Plywood, for the side panel
- 8 – 20 1/2″ long 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Molding
- 8 – 8 3/4″ long 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Molding
- 8 – 20 1/2″ long Cove Moluding with a 45-degree Miter
- 8 – 8 3/4″ long Cove Moulding with a 45-degree Miter
DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand – Tools Needed
DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand – Build Steps
Cut your 2″ x 2″ boards to size.
Put 1 pocket hole on each end of the 8 – 20 1/2″ long 2″ x 2″ boards. Should be 16 holes total.
Cut your 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Moulding to size.
Use Glue and your Brad Nailer to attach the 20 1/2″ long 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Moulding to the 20 1/2″ long 2×2’s. Be careful, you want to attach the 1/2″ wide side to the 2×2, so that there is still room for the 1/4″ thick board and the Cove Moulding. Make sure the Moulding is flush with the pocket hole side of the 20 1/2″ long boards.
Once all 8 – 20 1/2″ long 2×2’s have Moulding attached, you can assemble the sides. Build 1 full side with 2 – 20 1/2″ long 2×2’s and 2 – 13 1/4″ long 2×2’s. Use glue and screws to assemble 2 full sides.
Now, use glue and screws to connect the 2 full sides with 2 – 20 1/2 long 2×2’s. Make sure that all of the pocket holes are facing the inside of the box. Finish the final side with the last 2 – 2×2’s, glue and screws.
Use Glue and Brad Nails to attach the 8 – 8 3/4″ long 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Moulding pieces to the short sides of the frame. Make sure they are flush with the back of the 2×2 and even with the longer 1/2″ x 3/4″ Moulding you attached earlier.
Now the frame is assembled and the backing for your panel is in place. Just glue the beadboard, MDF, or plywood panel to your backing. Then frame the top of the panel with Cove Molding that has a 45-degree angle in the corners. Glue and Brad Nail the Cove Molding to the 2×2.
For the base, I attached 1 – 6″ long 2×2 to the middle of each side, with Glue and Screws. Make sure it is flush with the rest of the bottom of the frame, so that they sit directly on your floor and don’t have to support any weight. This is especially important with live trees with water that are so much heavier.
Glue and Nail your 1/2″ Base to the top of those 6″ supports.
Fill the pocket holes and nail holes with wood filler. I used Dap’s Plastic Wood-X. Once the wood filler is dry, sand the frame and the wood filler smooth. Clean off all dust with a tack cloth or scrap cloth. You might want to start with a shop vac or brush might be needed on the beadboard first. 🙂
Watch the build highlights video, join the conversation, ask questions, or share your results on YouTube.
That’s it. Now you’re ready to apply the finish. 🙂
DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand – Finishing Steps
You can stain, paint, or just poly this box, to match your style. So, I’m just going to tell you how I finished mine.
I’ve been using Magnolia Home Paint by Kilz to paint furniture lately. I used to always mix my favorite Latex Paint into chalk paint. But I’ve figured out that the standard Magnolia Home Wall Paint actually dries and cures like a chalk paint. So, it’s perfect on furniture. I used it on my DIY Farmhouse Console Table, DIY Laundry Table, and even my Laundry Room Cabinets.
I had Magnolia Homes by Kilz custom matched to DecoArt Chalk Paint color Rouge. The color is great. I used it on the DIY Kids Executive Desk I shared on Instagram (plans coming soon). But with the DecoArt chalk paint it took 5 or 6 coats to get full saturation. Red is notoriously takes a lot more coats for an even color. I hoped the Kilz paint would get full coverage, in less coats.
Long story short, the Kilz paint was a bit faster and easier to work with. But, both were great. For both paints, I skipped primer and just painted directly on the wood. I also skipped a clear coat with the Kilz Paint. That stuff is pretty stinkin’ easy to use, guys.
That’s it! You’re done. Enjoy you’re new box and ornament storage. 🙂
Hello, DIY friends! You can download the Christmas Tree Stand plans here. These plans are currently free to email subscribers and for personal use only. They cannot be shared or sold without my permission. Please let me know if you have any questions and enjoy your build! 🙂
Feeling inspired? Now you’re ready to build your own DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand. Let me know if you have questions. Don’t forget to sign up for the Abbotts At Home email newsletter to get DIY, Remodeling, and Crafty ideas in your inbox.