The laundry room makeover is moving right along with the addition of this DIY wood bin. This week, I built 2 of the bins I need for shoe storage. They turned out great and give the mud room bench area a more polished look. They double our shoe storage since they were made to fit the openings in the bench and they only cost around $12 each for a custom look. Awesome! Making them turned out to be easier and quicker than expected. This project was the perfect opportunity to use my new Kreg Jig R3. I was a bit intimidated at first, but the directions are really clear and simple. I think the 3 important keys are to have clamps to hold the wood in place, use Kreg’s screws, and to know where to place the pocket holes for the most secure build. I am including a link to a Kreg video that explains all of the types of joints and how to do them, at the bottom of this post.
I started the build for this DIY wood bin by measuring the opening in the mud room bench. The height of the opening is about 12 inches, so I decided that a 1″ X 10″ board would work perfectly in the opening. The opening is about 21 inches deep and 12 1/2 inches wide too. I decided to make the box 12″ X 20″ to take advantage of the space, but not make the fit too tight. Each box would need 5′ of 10″ board for the sides, front and back. I decided to use 3/4″ plywood I already had for the inset bottom. I can easily fit 8′ boards in my SUV, so I packed up the boys and picked up 2 8′ long 1 X 10’s (Common Board) at Home Depot. Since I already had everything else I needed at home, I was ready to build my custom storage bins. Don’t forget, you can adjust these measurements to make your own custom DIY wood bin for storage, shelf decoration, or anywhere you need a bit of style.
To make 1 – 12″ wide, 20″deep, 10″ high storage bin, you’ll need:
- 2 – 12″ long sections of the 10″ board for front and back
- 2 – 18 1/2″ long sections of the 10″ board for the sides (20″ – 3/4″ front – 3/4″ back = 18 1/2″)
- 1 – 10 1/2″ X 18 1/2″ section of plywood for the bottom
- Kreg Jig kit, clamp, and screws
- Wood Glue
- Nail Gun with 1 1/4″ brad nails
- Circular saw or Jigsaw
- Wood Conditioner, Stain, and Polyurethane of choice
Use your circular saw or jigsaw to cut the 1 X 10 wood and plywood to the lengths specified. I also used a jigsaw to cut a handle into the front board. I used the Kreg drill bit to create a pilot hole that the jigsaw blade could fit in. That drill bit is amazingly fast at creating pilot holes! Now sand each piece of wood to prep for stain and to smooth the sharp edges. I used 80 Grit first and followed with 120 grit after that. Set up your Kreg Jig for 3/4″ wood and follow the instructions to drill 2 holes on each end of the inside of each 18 1/2″ board. Make sure the wood is clamped in place while drilling the holes. Once all 8 holes are drilled (4 in each side board), you can connect the front board to one of the side boards. You can use a Kreg 90 degree clamp to hold the pieces together or set the pieces in place against something to make sure it doesn’t shift while screwing. Insert the screws completely into the holes before using your drill and Kreg bit to screw them in. Repeat this process for each hole, always making sure to verify alignment and check that the joint is square.
Once the 4 sides were assembled, I put a bead of wood glue all the way around the plywood bottom and set it on a flat surface. Then I slid the 4-sided box over the bottom and pushed it into place. This kept the glue from spreading to the inside of the box. I used my brad nailer around the bottom edges of the box on all 4 sides to secure the bottom in place. You could use regular wood for the bottom and use the Kreg to create pockets on the bottom of the piece. I was just afraid that the plywood might splinter with pocket holes and fail after a while. BUT some people say the pocket holes will work on plywood, you just need to be careful while screwing through it. I just tend to be over cautious sometimes.
That was pretty easy, right? Now apply Wood Conditioner to the sides, front and back. Let that set for 5 minutes before applying your stain. Be sure to follow the directions on the wood conditioner and stain to get the best result. A few hours later, my stain was dry. I applied 2 coats of a matte finish polyurethane. Be sure to allow the first coat to dry completely before applying the second.
Now your wood storage bin is complete and ready for use. Yea! I did add an optional inset to the bottom of my boxes. This was just as a pop of color that I can easily replace a couple times a year as the box gets dirty. I made this removable inset using scrap v-groove board that I covered in thick scrap booking paper. It’s almost too pretty to cover in shoes now. 😉
Feeling inspired? Want to build your storage boxes? Follow the links above to get the things you’ll need from Amazon. Have fun and let me know if you have questions. Or post pictures of your work and tag Abbotts At Home on FB, I’d love to see it!